- Mount Wilkinson 5/18/2017
- Pigeon Mountain Summit 6/3/2017
- Glenn Gap 6/10/2017
- Fouche Gap 6/10/2017
- Pine Mountain 6/20/2017
- Kennesaw Mountain 6/20/2017
- Chilhowee Mountain 7/8/2017
- Chilhowee Mountain 7/15/2017
- Fort Mountain 7/22/2017
- Ray’s Gap 7/28/2017
- Braswell Mountain 8/4/2017
- Kennesaw Mountain 11/13/2017
I wasn’t very good at it and for some reason no one ever took my picture, except for this guy:
It’s just so beautiful 😭
$4 lunch box
15 minutes with a scissors and a pocket knife
5 zip ties
30 square inches scrap HDPE
Holds a pretty good amount of stuff. Trés déclassé but I like it, let’s see how long it lasts – 150 miles so far.
- 3/11/2017 – 3 hours of Paynes Creek
- 4/15/2017 – Blankets Creek 15/30
- 5/13/2017 – 3 hours Fort Yargo
- 9/30/2017 – Big Ring Challenge
- 10/14/2017 – All-A-Toona Voodoo Mountain Bike Race
- 2/25/2017 – Assault on Mt. Currahee
- 3/4/2017 – Southern Cross
- 4/8/2017 – Skyway Epic 60
- 4/22/2017 – Shake ‘n’ Brake
- 4/29/2017 – Big Frog 65
- 8/19/2017 – Red Clay Ramble
- 9/17/2017 – Fools Gold 60
- 10/21/2017 – Standard Deluxe Dirt Road Century
- 11/4/2017 – Sac o’ Suds 50
- 12/2/2017 – Cohutta Death March Revival
• 2/17/2018 – Middle GA Epic 100k
• 3/3/2018 – Southern Cross
• 4/7/2018 – Skyway Epic 60
• 6/2/2018 – Red Clay Ramble
• 9/15/2018 – Fools Gold 60
• 10/20/2018 – Standard Deluxe Dirt Road Century
• 3/10/2018 – Old Capital Classic
• 4/14/2018 – Dirty 30 Blankets Creek
• 9/29/2018 – Big Ring
• 10/6-10/7 Atlanta to Chattanooga
Just for Fun
• 3/11/2018 – Belt Grind
• 9/1/2018 – Georgia Rodeo Rally – Double Black Diamond Reaper
• 2/24/2018 – Friend Green Tomato 200k
• 3/31/2018 – Homestead Hollow 300k
200 km: 9:27 hours
• 300 km: 14:00 hours (13:05)
400 km: 18:54 hours
600 km: 28:00 hours
• 200 km: 8:06 hours (7:43)
300 km: 12:00 hours
400 km: 16:12 hours
600 km: 24:00 hours
The bike arrived last night, unfortunately I won’t be able to ride for a week or two as I’m replacing the crankset with a more appropriate model for my needs and it’s in the mail from the UK right now.
But I do have some build notes below, it’s a nice bike. I looked at some of the comparable models in my back issues of Bicycle Quartlery and noted that although the Masi is relatively heavy – for a disc, fendered, low-trail steel bike it’s only 0.5-1 pounds heavier than something like an Elephant NFE. Weight with stock wheelset, no pedals or accessories was 28.75 pounds/13.04 kg.
The stock wheelset (no skewers but w/rotors) weighs 2.56 pounds/1.16 kg front and 3.0 pounds/1.36 kg rear. I replaced with a $400 stans/shimano/sapim build I did myself and dropped total weight by 1.5 pounds. I’m probably going to drop the front front fender support and tire directly to a front rack so that would be an additional few ounces saved.
- Fenders are set-up for max clearance for 650bx47 only, slight air gap in front. 42s will not look good and no further downward adjust-ability with stock hardware.
- Overall fit/finish is good. Some of the welds are not the best but the paint and overall parts finish is good.
- IMO 50/34 crankset is not a good choice for this style bike – 46/36 would be better but not easily available at OEM level for the same price as 4700 crankset.
- Drops are flared too much at the wrong point. Flare should have been more at the top of the drops and less overall; 8° would have been good.Left to right: 0°, 8°, “12°” from the Masi
- Wheelset is heavy as expected, also is not set-up for tubeless out of the box – rimstrip is regular plastic band and is actually too narrow for the rim – replace before riding.
- Frame has a small sticker indicating it is made by Kenstone Metals, Ltd in Taiwan – I don’t have any direct experience but the company’s website inspires confidence this is a well-engineered bike.
- I confirmed the fork rake measurement at 65mm, trail will be 35.7 w/47mm 650b tires, wheel flop 10mm.
- Brake calipers are a similar design to other low end models, but have a small update that I think will keep me on them for a while. The fixed adjustment screw has a small M2 screw to lock it in place. Prior iterations of this type of caliper would often wear out in a few thousand miles as the fixed adjustment screw wore out as there is no detent and the thread is fine.
So it occurred to me that I was out riding around yesterday in very windy 35-40 degree weather wearing shorts, a pull-over with a t-shirt underneath, some thin gloves and shoe covers.
I was cold but not COLD like I would have been any other winter. Comfortable I guess, did the entire ride without sweating, something impossible in the past.
This isn’t the first ride like this, just the most recent. I’ve really been handling the cold weather well this year. I was ok last year but 2011-2015 were pretty abysmal. The only thing I can figure different is that I’ve been hiking early morning and the afternoons I don’t ride. I do about 30 to 90 minutes in the cold and it seems to really have changed how well I can handle colder temperatures.
I guess there’s something to acclimation. Thinking back the first few cold rides were painful and then like a switch being flipped I was fine, I think it took about 2 weeks of 20-25 hours outside a week to get used to the weather. Going to keep this going and see if it works through the real winter season. Misc notes below.
- Hands and feet are the more important. If they’re warm everything else can be accommodated.
- Eyes are next, watery blurry eyes are too hard to deal with. Need good coverage safety glasses.
- When adding layers, after the hands and feet add to the next and core first.
- Legs and arms last.
- Don’t necessarily need to be warm, just less cold.
- When hiking, get moving and take deep breaths. Suck in all the cold, it’ll make you stronger.
Here’s an interesting article I found: https://io9.gizmodo.com/how-do-our-bodies-adjust-to-extreme-temperatures-1503474690